# Cut and assemble layered SVG projects in LightBurn or xTool Studio

> Separate physical layers from machine operations, preserve shared scale, test material fit and dry-assemble a layered MyLaserTools design.

A physical layer is one piece in the finished stack. A software colour layer is a group of objects sharing processing settings. Several physical pieces can share one cutting operation; one piece can need both engraving and cutting.

## What you need

- The layered SVG export, the intended stack order and measured material thickness.
- LightBurn or xTool Studio, suitable material and your assembly adhesive or hardware.

## 1. Check scale and identify every piece



Import the SVG using the [LightBurn guide](/learn/guides/using-mylasertools-with-lightburn) or [xTool guide](/learn/guides/xtool-studio-workflow). Compare a known finished width. Keep the scale consistent across all physical layers; never fit each layer independently to the sheet. Identify front, middle and back pieces before nesting.

## 2. Assign operations and run a fit test



Inspect the actual paths, then assign cut, score and engraving operations. Use settings tested for each material and thickness. Keep interior holes and delicate details ahead of the final outer cut when planning the operation order. For slots, tabs or finger joints, cut a small fit sample; measured thickness and kerf affect assembly.

![Clear acrylic discs and frames, each engraved with an offset from 0.10 to 0.40](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/acrylic-kerf-fit-test-maker.webp)

A press-fit test in clear acrylic. Each disc and frame is engraved with the offset it was cut with, from 0.10 to 0.40. Press each disc into its matching frame and use the value that holds without forcing.

## 3. Label, dry-stack and finish



Keep a stack-order reference beside the machine. Frame each sheet, inspect the preview and cut the material groups separately as needed. Dry-stack the pieces before gluing, check orientation and hanging holes, and finish surfaces at the stage appropriate for your chosen coating and adhesive.

![Peeling the paper film off a cut glitter acrylic cat shape on the laser bed](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/acrylic-protective-film-maker.webp)

Acrylic usually arrives with a protective film on both faces. Peel it just before you dry-stack, so the faces stay clean while you handle the pieces.

![Two-layer heart with a bronze honeycomb-cut top over a purple gradient back](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/layered-honeycomb-heart-maker.webp)

A two-layer heart: a honeycomb-cut bronze top over a purple gradient back. Dry-stack a piece like this before gluing and check that every opening shows the colour you expect.

## Score lines and cut openings are different operations



![Wooden map with fine contour lines and blue backing visible through cut water openings](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/scored-contour-map-maker.webp)

The contour lines are scored into the top sheet and the water is cut out, so the blue backing shows through. Put the score lines and the cuts on separate layers in your laser software.

## Transparent print with a separate cut overlay



![Transparent sheet with purple, pink and blue printed artwork visible through the material](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/transparent-printed-sheet-maker.webp)

Artwork printed on a transparent sheet. Keep it the same size and the same way round as the cut panel that goes over it.

![White floral cut panel placed over coloured transparent printed artwork](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/transparent-print-cut-overlay-maker.webp)

The white cut panel over the printed sheet. Line them up and check the border before you glue them.

## Layered maps: plan the finished stack



![Finished two-tone green layered map mounted on a wall](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/layered-green-map-maker.webp)

A two-tone green layered map: the dark top sheet over a bright backing. Keep all the layers from one export so small islands and narrow channels line up.

![Maker holding a large green layered map panel](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/layered-green-map-showcase.webp)

The same green map held up to show its size. To make one this big on a small laser, turn on tiling in the Map Designer so each layer is split into pieces that fit your bed.

![Maker holding a wood-coloured map with nested depth layers](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/layered-wood-map-showcase.webp)

A wood map with nested depth layers. Number each sheet as it comes off the laser and dry-fit the order before gluing.

![Framed layered city map with black roads over white land and blue water, held up outdoors](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/framed-layered-city-map-maker.webp)

Black roads over white land and blue water, in a white box frame. The frame depth has to fit the whole stack.

![Layered city map in blue and pink mirror acrylic held up outdoors](https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/software/mirror-acrylic-layered-city-map-maker.webp)

A layered city map in blue mirror acrylic over a pink mirror back. Mirror layers reflect each other, so look at the dry stack in daylight before gluing.

## Troubleshooting



- **The layers do not line up:** one sheet was scaled or rotated. Cut every layer from the same export, at the same size.
- **Too many cuts:** there are duplicate paths, or a reference layer still has Output on.

## Manufacturer documentation



- [LightBurn layer modes](https://docs.lightburnsoftware.com/latest/Reference/CutsLayersWindow/)
- [xTool vector import](https://support.xtool.com/article/2520)

## Make it yours

Next: [assembling layered maps](/learn/guides/assembling-layered-map-stacks), or go back to the [Learning Center](/learn).

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Open the example tool: https://www.mylasertools.com/christmas-ornament
Read online: https://www.mylasertools.com/learn/guides/layered-laser-workflow
